Primitivo to Zinfandel….. “I AM YOUR FATHER!!”
In a Maury Povich-esque finding a few years ago, it turns out that “Primitivo is…THE FATHER!” For years, Zinfandel was thought to be indigenous to California, until DNA tests revealed its heritage and original birthplace in southern Italy. Primitivo most likely travelled the ocean with wine-loving Italian immigrants in the dawn of America, where it found a comfortable home in the warm fertile vineyards of California. Zinfandel has become so successful that a lobby has started to make it the Golden state’s official grape.
Back in Southern Italy, Primitivo has been a constant crowd pleaser, slightly more restrained than its brash American son. The trademark flavours of the “family” are sweet, ripe fruit with aromas of violets, leather and spice. Primitivo generally has more structure and balance than Zinfandel, which matches the American palate where bigger is often seen as better. Some Californian examples can get as high as 17% alcohol, but the full fruit style keeps things in check. There is definite value with these grapes at every price point, so they are right at home on any wine list.
Over the long, cold winter we often turn to full-flavoured, hearty foods like stews and roasts, and there is no better match than Primitivo or Zinfandel. Here is a recipe you might enjoy, with some good bottles that will stand up to its full flavour.
Shredded beef brisket tacos
Serves 6
Cooking Time
Prep time 20 mins, cook 3 hours and 30 mins
800 g beef brisket, chuck or ribs, cut into 5-cm pieces
1 onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves of garlic
¼ cup lard or vegetable oil
480 g (about 3) vine-ripened tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp chilli powder
1 long green chilli, thinly sliced
To serve: wheat-flour tortillas
1. Place beef in a large saucepan, add enough water to cover, add 1 tsp sea salt and bring to the boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for five minutes, skimming scum from surface. Add half the onion and half a clove of garlic to pan, partially cover and simmer for three hours or until meat is tender. Remove meat from broth, reserving broth, and finely shred using two forks.
2. Finely chop remaining garlic and set aside. Heat lard over medium heat in a large heavy-based frying pan, add beef and remaining onion and sauté for five minutes or until onion is soft and beef browns slightly. Add garlic, tomato, green onion, chilli powder and green chilli and cook for two minutes or until tomato softens. Add 180 ml of reserved broth and cook for 10-15 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve spooned into warm tortillas, with your favourite toppings on the side.
Cline Zinfandel 2007
California
Medium ruby colour; intense sweet briary, raspberry fruit aromas with hints of earthy, spice and clove; dry with generous blackberry fruit flavours and a rich mouthfeel; spicy finish. (LCBO tasting panel)
Feudi Di San Marzano Primitivo 2007
Puglia, Italy
Sweet, round and ripe aromas. Very modern, fruit-filled character. Rich, lush and very satisfying – warm, fruity damsons, lively. Score: Silver Medal. (Decanter World Wine Awards)
A Mano Primitivo 2007
Puglia, Italy
The A Mano Primitivo 2007 from Apulia, Italy, is my go-to spaghetti red with its floral, lifted raspberry nose flecked with bits of spice. Look for plenty of raspberry flavours streaked with a savoury-anise undercurrent and a dusting of tannins. Grilled meats or spaghetti Bolognese would work here. Score: 88. (Anthony Gismondi, www.gismondionwine.com, 2009)
Gnarly Head, Gnarlier Head, Old Vine Zinfandel 2006
California
This Old Vine Zin impressed our panel, showcasing how ‘America’s grape’ can make a wine that’s both fun-loving and serious at the same time. It’s bursting with ripe blackberry, black cherry, bramble and sweet oak aromas and flavours. Dry, full-bodied with a soft, mouth-filling texture and an extraordinarily long finish. Finely balanced and drinking well now, it pairs beautifully with braised ribs. (VINTAGES panel, April 2009)
Stay thirsty,
Rob
Rob Montgomery
Bar Chef / The Miller Tavern
www.themiller.ca
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