Andrew Wong, Wild Rice, Vancouver
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| A toast to success: Andrew Wong enjoys a glass of red at his modern Chinese bistro, Wild Rice. Photo © Jason McRobbie. |
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Wong hired local artisans to the build Wild Rice’s furnishings and fixtures. Every piece in the restaurant has a story. Photo © Martin Tessler |
Serving up a range of creative concoctions, Andrew Wong’s Wild Rice restaurant has been a Vancouver hotspot for almost a decade. Opened in September 2001, Wild Rice sits at 117 W. Pender St., skirting the city’s historic Chinatown and tempting visitors of nearby landmarks like Cinemark Tinseltown and the Queen Elizabeth Theatre.
Wong had always dreamed of creating a modern Chinese bistro. Spurred on by a family history in hospitality – his grandfather owned Vancouver’s Lotus Hotel and his father was a server for 25 years – Wong began his restaurant career at the age of 13. By 20, he was juggling jobs at three prominent restaurants while attending the hospitality management program at Dubrulle Culinary School (now Art Institute of Vancouver).
| “Being a [CRFA] member is a good way to learn about others within the industry across the country,” says Wong. “I’m able to find answers to problems by simply e-mailing my membership representative.” |
After selling his share of The Brickhouse, his first restaurant venture, Wong decided to launch his dream bistro.
“There has always been an excitement that goes with the creativity involved in restaurants,” he says. “I wanted to challenge myself by opening my own place.”
With 20 employees, Wild Rice seats 88 – on the main floor, loft, bar and mezzanine – and is open seven days a week. True to his heritage and commitment to sustainability, Wong’s menu features modern Chinese cuisine made from local ingredients. Even his wine list exclusively features West Coast products.
Wong has been a CRFA member since 2001, joining initially because of the association’s attractive credit card discount. He also values how CRFA keeps him abreast of industry news.
“Being a member is a good way to learn about others within the industry across the country,” he explains. “I’m able to find answers to problems by simply e-mailing my membership representative.”
During his 27 years in the business, Wong has faced various challenges, ranging from finding the right people to represent and fulfill his vision to dealing with the recent economic downturn. Keeping concepts and ideas fresh is also challenging.
“Constantly reinventing our food and dining experience so we do not become stale is an ongoing goal” he says. “It is important to maintain innovation and excellence while staying top of mind with the public and critics.”
Not that Wong has fallen short in this area. If his plethora of awards is any indication – Wild Rice has been a repeat winner of the Georgia Straight Golden Plate Awards for Most Innovative Menu – offering boring food is the least of his concerns.
Wong attributes Wild Rice’s success to timing and uniqueness. Launching at a time when there were few new restaurants opening meant less competition. Chinese cuisine had also broken into the Vancouver market, making Wild Rice’s offering familiar and comfortable. With the basics covered, Wong focused on uniqueness to entice patrons.
“We concentrated on a different style of presenting and executing, while using local ingredients,” he explains. “Also, having a good wine list and a full bar was unique. For the first two years, we ran with the tagline ‘martinis and Chinese food – who knew?’”
Indeed, intriguing inventions like Buddha’s noodles and Fraser Valley lamb potstickers further pique a patron’s interest. The spicy kung po chicken dish is a bestseller at Wild Rice.
When asked to choose a personal favourite, however, Wong is torn.
“Colder weather would drive me toward something comforting and braised like pork belly or lamb shank,” he decides. “In warmer weather, I’d go for pan seared squid and pickled cabbage or whole baby char and pea shoot.”
* Story published in Canadian Restaurant & Foodservice News, March 2010